The modern suit is the result of a series of developments that the classic 19th century men’s suit went through. The suits we find today are a combination of technique, cultural aspects and different aesthetic matters that make them a very advanced form of dressing.
Because suits have seen such a rapid development, especially within the last decade, many men feel left behind and are puzzled when they hear terms like “modern cut” or “slim fit”. But, this is where we come in!
In this brief, but complete guide, we take a look at the different types of suit fits. This way, you will know better what to choose next time you go shopping and will see suits in a different light.
There are many aspects you should consider before putting on a suit, such as how it will frame your body, whether it will make you look taller or shorter, bigger or smaller.
Before we take a look at the different types of suit fits, we need to establish a rule of thumb. The number one aspect you should be looking for when wearing a suit is the overall fit. The overall fit refers to a suit being cut in such a way that it fits your body well. What this means is that a good suit should not be bigger or smaller than your size. Yes, some suits are boxier than others by cut, but this does not mean that it needs to fit badly. To rapidly check whether a suit fits well or not, you can look at some key points, such as the shoulders. The shoulder line of the suit should be a perfect match for your natural shoulder line. Regardless of whether a suit has a fitted or a boxy design, this line must always be in the same place. The same goes for the length: a suit jacket should never be longer than your bum, but and never shorter than covering just half of your bum.
Moreover, your pants should not fold at the bottom more than once. Once is according to some too much as well, but it does go. However, two folds at the bottom of the pants are already way too old-fashioned. Furthermore, the natural waist of your pants should be at your natural waist. Don’t pull your pants up to your belly or push them down to your crotch: you will look disproportioned and misbalanced.
As tips we can say that if you are wearing a tie, make sure it touches you belt line and does not end higher or lower that it.
Also, when you are wearing a dress suit, it is recommended that your belt should match your shoes in terms of color.
We know that a lot of people are not aware (yet) of these things, but following these rules will make others unconsciously perceive you as polished and put together.
So, with all this in mind, let’s take a look at the different types of suit fits:
The Classic Fit is easy to wear and comfortable. A suit that features a classic cut has a clean body shape, but is cut big enough through the chest and waist, which results in less constriction for the wearer. Classic Fit suits are not the most modern option, but they are perfect for those who are not used to wearing suits very often. Classic Fit suits can represent a slight transition from never wearing a suit to wearing very stylish suits.
A Slim-Fit suit is, as the name suggests, a suit that is fitted closer to the body and that doesn’t have any excess fabric. Many people call these suits Italian fits, as initially Italian suits were tailored more closely to the body. Remember that a slim fit suit does not have anything to do with the wearer being slim or not, it simply refers to the construction of the suit and its overall look. Just as a note, remember that if you can’t lift your arms in a suit, it is probably too small for you. Even suits with extreme slim fittings need to be comfortable and allow you to move freely.
The Modern fit is neither a classic fit nor a slim fit: it falls between the two. Suits that have a modern fit are not as roomy as Classic Fit suits, but are not as sharply tailored as a Slim Fit. These suits are perfect for men who want to look sharp, but are not sure they can pull off a slim fit suits. Modern Fit suits are perfect for all ages, all environments and can be easily styled up or down, depending on the wearer’s needs.
Purchasing a good suit, made from a quality fabric, in a versatile color, that fits you well and reflects your personal style is smart style investment that will last for years and that will make you be more confident and change your attitude towards the world, other people and yourself for the better.
Fraquoh and Franchomme
If you want to learn more about suits, read our other articles on the topic:
P.S. Which fit do you prefer in a suit? Share your thoughts in the comments below! For more articles on style, fashion tips and cultural insights, you can subscribe to Attire Club via e-mail or follow us on Facebook or Twitter!