The Guide to Vintage Clothes and Accessories: How to Buy Vintage (B)

The taste for vintage clothes and accessories makes some people turn into veritable treasure hunters of old-time clothes. In a world where the fashion industry keeps on expanding, some people like to add old finds to their wardrobes to make them more original, to fill them with history and to make fashion statements about their world-view and opinions.

There are two main reasons why people buy vintage clothes and accessories: one, because they want to wear them, and two, because they want to collect them. Either way, you should know what you are looking for when you are on the seek of buying vintage pieces.

Sometimes, you will find old pieces in thrift stores, but that does not necessary make them vintage. There are also stores specialized in collecting and selling vintage finds. The Tie Haberdashery is an on-line store that sells amazing vintage ties. They are classified by era and style and you can find amazing ties and bow ties from the dating back from the 1920s to the 1970s.

What is the difference between real vintage pieces that are worth collecting and wearing and just old clothes? We have put together a list of tips you should follow when you are on the hunt for the next great vintage find:

1. The difference between vintage and thrift. Buying from a second hand store does not mean that you are buying “vintage”. Vintage pieces, as opposed to “used” pieces stand out for several reasons: they have withstood the test of time, their quality is (almost) as good as it was on the first day, its design works today just liked it did when the item was “fashionable” or it has a special historical, cultural or geographical provenance.

2. The right size. When you are going shopping and wish to purchase a vintage item, it’s crucial that you try it on! Size standards have changed over the years and what was a certain size 50 years ago is not the same size today. Also, note that some older pieces (although this is usually the case of women’s clothes) have a cut and a structure that was meant to be worn with a certain undergarment, such a corset in some cases. This means that if you don’t have the right undergarment to go with the clothes, they probably won’t “fall” in place very well. Try something on before you actually commit to buying it.

3. Check the fabric. If you are buying clothes or accessories from a vintage store, make sure you feel the fabric. Sometimes, a piece can seem to be in perfect shape, but if the material is damaged, it’s not worth it (unless you want to buy it to put it in a storage case).

 

4. Clothes or costumes? When you are considering buying a very old piece, with the purpose of wearing it, think twice before you buy it and ask yourself if it works with the rest of your wardrobe. First of all, a mismatched piece won’t go a long way or do you any good, but it might also look like you are wearing a costume. It’s important to pay attention to all these details if you don’t want to spend your money on the wrong things (and look like you just stepped out of a carnival room).

 

5. Check the piece’s condition. Beautiful and interesting fabrics usually stand the test of time. Silk, linen, cotton and wool can last a very long time, so you can find them in good condition. When you are inspecting your desired item, check not only its strength and integrity, but also check it for stains, insects, smells, if it’s too worn or if the colors and fading and so on. Check the pockets, the collar, the stitched areas and see if they are in the best condition they can be after all those years.

 

6. Know your decades! It’s important to know when what was made, so that you can discern easier among the pieces you wish to buy. Here’s a brief timeline of styles and characteristic you should find on vintage items:

• Pre-1901: This is a very broad category that includes everything from Victorian clothes to pieces made after that and, if you are lucky, pieces made even before the 19th century. It’s unlikely that you will find something pre-1800s easily, but you can try.

• 1901-1919: This era includes the time before the First World War and the time of the war. This period reflected the influence of Eastern fashion, and covers a very diverse range of products, from Edwardian blouses to work wear used during the war.

• 1920-1938: This was a time when the world changed drastically and so did the fashions. The 1920s represent the era of the “Roaring” 20s and the flappers, with many colorful pieces, but still classic designs in terms of cut and fabrics. The 1920s and 30s represent an era where reserved clothes went side by side with extravagant items.

• 1939-1946: During World War II,fashion went a little south, of course, as people demanded more practical clothes than stylish extravagances. Fitted jackets and warm hats were some of the staples of this dark time.

• 1947-1964: During this time period, clothes changed again. The rise of the rock-and-roll scene was the cause of a new break between very conservative clothes and “crazy” items, even though the “crazy” ones were not as extravagant as those of the 1920s. You will find a lot of well-fitted shirts and jackets dating back to this time.

• 1965-1976: Soon after, with the rise of the hippie culture, natural and ethnic styles, expressed through bright colors, psychedelic and floral patterns became the staple in fashion. It was in this time when denim became main stream and entered the world of fashion, changing its place from a simple worker’s fabric.
  This disco era is full of color, shine and unexpected designs.

• 1977-1989: This era is considered the most recent “vintage” era. During this time, the punk rock and new wave culture influenced the fashion world, by filling the shelves with leather jackets, ripped t-shirts, jeans and so on. Over sized clothes are also one of the staples of this time.

 

7. Storage. After you bought a vintage item, make sure that you don’t store it in plastic. Plastic is a material that doesn’t let any fabric breathe, and thus it will only deteriorate a fabric that you wish to keep in shape for as long as possible. It’s better to keep your finds in a wooden box,an armoir or even a cardboard box than in a plastic one. The way you maintain a piece is very important, as, think about it, it only becomes more vintage!

 

Additional tip:

Sometimes, vintage pieces can cost more than new ones (for example should you buy vintage Chanel) for several reasons, such as the fact that they were crafted better or that they have become almost a museum piece, or both. Think carefully about the reasons why you are buying vintage and whether you wish to buy the pieces in order to collect them, to wear them, or for whatever other reason.

 

 

Fraquoh and Franchomme

 

In the second part of the guide, we discuss why you should (or should not) buy vintage items and what the cultural significance of vintage items is.

 

 

 

 

 

P.S. What do you think? Do you like buying vintage clothes? What are things you are looking for when you are purchasing a vintage find? Do you like to wear your vintage treasures or to collect them? Share your thoughts in the comments below!