Fetishism in fashion is a big trend that started out a few years ago (around 2000 or so), but which has grown very much in recent years. While fashion itself is for many people a fetish, in a way a commodity fetish as Marx would put it, fetishism in fashion is an ongoing and growing trend.
While sexual fetishism has always been part of fashion, other types of fetishes are emerging now in the look books and collections of many brands and designers.
Defining fetishes
A fetish (the word being derived from the French fétiche; which comes from the Portuguese feitiço; and this in turn from Latin facticius, “artificial” and facere, “to make”), is represented by an object that is believed to have supernatural powers. Sometimes, a fetish is a man-made object that has power over others. It was coined in the 1800s and defines an obsessive fascination over something.
Fetishes have a twofold basis, namely a philosophical one, where the fetish gives a certain power to a person, as they believe in it (à la “The Wizard of Oz” where Dorothy’s three companions receive an object to attest that they do possess the qualities they believed were lacking them) and secondly a sociological one, where one gains power by having a certain object (recent studies for example have shown that in the USA, the primary reason why people buy luxury goods is to gain a higher social status, as opposed to Europe, where luxury goods are purchased for the enjoyment of the buyer).
In other words, a fetish is an idealization of a concept, a fascination with something or the idea of gaining value because of an item. These days, consumer goods themselves are in many cases fetishes, the best examples being cars, art and technology – people buy the latest iPhone regardless of its features.
In the non-sexual category…
In fashion, there are many types of fetishes that are used as motifs in clothes and accessories. Their role is often to give the wearer a sense of stability, direction and in some cases, righteousness.
Today in fashion, we see more types of fetishes, especially the following:
Ethnicity. Ethnicity is a very big trend these days. As the dynamic between globalism and regionalism is in a very powerful movement, ethnic identifiers make for a very big part of sartorial elements. We can often see clothes that feature ethnic motifs (such as African or South American motifs), specific fabrics (such as linen) or colors that carry symbols.
Animals. The fauna is a very big motif in fashion today. From accessories that feature the shape of birds or animals to hoof shoes and the classic animal prints and t-shirt featuring representational images of totemic animals, animals are used as a way of expressing human characteristics in a way that is obvious, yet stylized.
Flowers. Plants and flowers are also a huge motif in fashion. We very much meet it in menswear these days. As the mainstream man becomes more and more feminized, we tend to see more and more men wearing crown flowers, flowers in their beards and so on. In the case of womenswear, we see many dresses featuring colors specific to flowers or floral motifs.
Religion. In the world of the beginning of the 21st century, religion is a very polarizing part of life. In some cases, religion is extremely vulgarized and on the other hand, it is completely taboo. This dynamic creates great tension and rather bad fashion, but nonetheless little fashion, as religion is often exploited.
Science and Tech. While not a very big trend, yet but one that is sure to take off after the autumn of 2017, science and tech will be the next big thing in fashion. Everything that resembles in one way or another thing such as robots, molecules, astronauts and so on will be big thing in the seasons to come.
Masks. A trend that has been around for a few years and that is still trying to find a way to make it in the mainstream is the covering of the face. People today are looking to cover their faces or hide their identities for several reasons and are finding more and more ways to do it and be anonymous.
Infantilism. Many people have given up on maturity in the last decade, which makes it very unsurprising that infantilism is a very big trend in fashion these days. Shapes, colors and proportions that are usually thought for babies and children, but also comic book elements and other childish references are used more and more. This is a growing trend in menswear, not only in womenswear.
Knits. Clothes and accessories that look as if they were hand-made by a woman 50 years ago are also one of the things people seek out a lot. In a very hectic world, crochets, macramé and everything in between are things that make people feel more domestic and rooted into something.
Asia. While the Far East has been a source of inspiration for many artists since the late 1960s and early 70s, in recent years more and more people have looked out to the region not only for inspiration, but to a complete appropriation of Asian life. Therefore, items coming from the Far East are and will be still in fashion in the years to come.
Theater. Romantic theater and the Victorian aesthetic are still a large trend in fashion, but almost exclusively in womenswear. Regency-era styles that are being adopted in minimalistic black and white designs are often seen both on the runways and the streets of the world.
Sexual fetishes
The world of sexual fetishes expressed through clothes and accessories is far and wide, but some elements of it have entered the fashion world and are now very present in the look books of various brands. The difference between a non-sexual fetish and a sexual fetish is that a sexual fetish is defined as an element that is generally not destined to cause sexual arousal, but which it does for some people.
BDSM. The world of bondage, discipline, dominance and submission is one of the biggest and most prominent parts of the sexual fetishes world. It is so prominent that in many ways it has become mainstream. Leather or latex clothes and fetishes, spikes, harnesses and every other accessory and wearable element have been and are continuing to be translated in many pieces and shows. In a way, it can even be said that BDSM fashion has become a cliché.
Toddler sex. There is a growing trend in grown people wanting to have sex as babies. This idea takes infantilization to a whole different level. Sometimes, it is translated into fashion with the help of bibs, pacifiers and even diaper-like clothes. This could be the reason why we also see so many clown-like sexy items and other circus-derived pieces.
Glitter. Related to the toddler sex and the infantilization fetishes, glitter, sparkle and everything shiny is what seems to be on the agenda of many brands. We see everything shine, from suits to underwear and even makeup. The reason why this is a sexual fashion fetish is because it is usually used in provocative items.
The field of sexual fetishes is very complex and very complicated. It is tied to our hidden passions, ideals and frustrations.
In a way, every type of fetish does that and is meant to grant us either the overcoming of something, the dominance of something or approval and personal gains, depending on whether the fetish is a sexual one or a non-sexual one.
The critique
If we can make a criticism of the phenomenon of fetishism in fashion, we could say that there is one thing that is noteworthy almost every time one of these elements comes up in fashion, the biggest exceptions being the ethnic motifs, animal and floral fetishes. And that is a sense of hardness, obsessiveness and immorality. In a way, this would be very explainable: if fetishes are meant to, as said earlier, “give the wearer a sense of stability, direction and in some cases, righteousness” and because they cater “hidden passions, ideals and frustrations” it is only normal that they feature a negative aggression instead of a positive one, a very severe tone instead of a bright and colorful one and that their overall aesthetic seems to be one that is more often than not creating aversion.
Fetishes are objects that help us express our inside on the outside, they are helping us give shape to the world and to our own selves. They are meant to create a full circle, between our mind to our body, to the world and back to our mind, thus fulfilling a spiritual aspiration. We can therefore discuss about the totemization of fashion. Clothes, while many will not want to admit it, play a very relevant and important role in society and culture. They make the invisible – visible and communicate messages, they give ourselves a sense of who we are, where we are in our lives and much more.
Fashion is one of the most concrete expressions of life, as it has close and immediate relation to our bodies, which in the end, represent our experience of the world.
Fraquoh and Franchomme
Further reading:
Menswear trend: Couture sportswear
Trend forecasting: Fashion Weeks ahead (2017/2018)
Is there a crisis in fashion blogging?
What were the most-searched for fashion questions in 2016? And how Attire Club had the answers
Fashion forward: Keywords of 2016. Where to next?
6 fashion subcultures you should know about
Carnival culture: Unmasking the world of hidden identities
The double meaning of androgyny in fashion
P.S. We want to hear from you! What do you think about fetishes and fashion? Which one do you think looks best? Which one do you not like? Share your feedback, questions or thoughts in the comments below! For more articles on style, fashion tips and cultural insights, you can subscribe to Attire Club via e-mail or follow us on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram!