In order to buy a quality wristwatch, there are a few things any discerning amateur horologist needs to know. As we all know, the industry around luxury watches is changing dramatically, but watchmaking – as a craft – has existed for centuries and there are a few simple tips that can help layman navigate their way through this tradition-laden, yet changing market. In the following article, we’ll cover some useful tips for finding a quality watch that will look stylish and last.

The weight and movement

Firstly, you can feel the quality of a watch in its weight. A well-made, expensive and qualitative watch will feel heavy because of the complex mechanisms inside it. The components and pieces inside of a watch add to its weight, so it stands to reason that a watch with a bit of heft to it is the product of quality, complex, craftsmanship. These days, very few watches under the $10,000 mark will be made by hand. Most watches, even high-quality or luxury ones by brands like Tissot, Certina, and Rolex, are powered by either a quartz movement or a certified mechanical movement (COSC). The advantage of quartz-powered watches is that they tend to be lighter – because there are fewer moving parts in the watch – and they are reliably accurate and affordable.

Another sure fire sign of quality is a watch that doesn’t tick. It sounds counterintuitive, but a good watch will tell the time smoothly and without a loud and obtrusive ticking. This is often the most easily perceptible difference between a cheap, mass-made movement and a well-made movement. This isn’t to say that the watch isn’t tick-tacking, it simply means that the mechanism is so smooth it’s inaudible.

The brand and its heritage

A watch from a renowned brand is generally a better investment than a watch from a smaller or newer manufacturer; it denotes craftsmanship, which is something that is in increasingly rare supply. In the ever-changing world in which we live, few things remain constant, but the quality of a Swiss-made watch is something that’s unlikely to change and is recognized the world over.

Aside from the status conferred, there is also a practical advantage to buying a watch from a heritage brand or one that you’re confident will be around for years to come. If your watch breaks or you need spare parts, it’s considerably easier to secure the parts you need from the brand. Simply put, there’s just an extra degree of security with a heritage brand.

With something as precious as a timepiece, it pays to consider what might happen five or even ten years after the initial purchase. In recent years, several watch brands have popped up promising to revolutionize the industry only to then disappear seemingly overnight. I’ve always felt some sympathy for their consumers for this reason, as it’s highly unlikely that they will be source parts for their watches in the future. There are plenty of other reasons to opt for a heritage brand, some of which we’ve explored in other articles.

The economics of your watch

In the world of horology, there are several different kinds of watch and the clearest indicator as to the kind is oftentimes the price. Just as with wine, if you want to know if you’re buying a good watch, the price tag is often a good place to start. Any watch under $250 can be pretty safely categorized as a fashion watch, intended for casual consumers. These kinds of watches might break in a couple of years and are not intended to be heirloom pieces.

Anything between $250 and $1000 can roughly be characterized as watches for enthusiasts. These are primarily for men and women with a degree of disposable income and a desire to purchase a timepiece with a hallmark of quality. Certainly, most watch manufacturers, such as Certina and Tissot, will provide a beautiful range of models in this bracket. In this range, you’ll find the widest variety of both quality and style. Undoubtedly, you can find a quality watch in this range, but you might just as easily be ripped off, so proceed with caution.

Watches above the $1000 to $10,000 price mark are luxury watches. In this rarefied range, the price you pay is as good an assurance of quality as you’re likely to get – aside from the actual quality assurance you’ll get. All the big name brands can be found in this particular bracket. These kinds of watches signal first and foremost your ability to buy one. When you’re considering buying a watch of this kind of monetary value, you’re looking at a possible heirloom and you’d best know what it is that you’re buying.

Watches today are more than just timepieces: they are veritable status symbols, jewelry items and why not, sometimes they can even qualify as wearable art, which is why investing in the right watch is essential. Knowing and investigating every detail of a watch will ensure you that you will have an amazing experience wearing a fantastic watch on your arm.

Fraquoh and Franchomme

The weight and movement

The brand and its heritage

The economics of your watch

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