The latest collection by Paul Smith which was recently revealed in Milan revolved all around reworking the classic men’s jacket. Looking back at different eras and styles of fashion, the label focused on creating a collection that features classic pieces with a twist. They were inspired by classic jackets as they were interpreted throughout the modern history of fashion, but we could also see some Renaissance references thrown in there.
The dual-tone approach was the main storyline of the collection. Many of the pieces featured great analog color combinations. Placing together colors that lie close to each other on the color wheel such as blue and purple or red and orange is hard to pull off, as one needs to choose the right choices to make sure the piece doesn’t look strange, but when done right, it looks very mature and elegant. Moreover, such combinations have a calming effect on the wearer and on those around them. Such combinations make people feel down on earth, as this type of color combinations are often found in nature: the hills and the sky, the tones of flowers, etc. In this case, the analog color combinations were done with excellence.
In terms of shapes and silhouettes, Paul Smith worked mostly with a baggy, large aesthetic, which is quite on trend today. For a few seasons now we have been seeing lots of large, almost sack-style garments on the runways of the world. There is definitely a strong trend in covering the male shape today. We would have liked to see more fitted silhouettes, as the power of the colors and the careful shapes are often lost in these types of oversized garments. And, moreover, men will generally prefer to wear fitted clothes: while many designers might deny it, for many men, the Italian cut is always in.
Overall though, the collection was quite remarkable as it brought some bright colors to the runway with some surprising choices such as light, bright teal. The fabric work was also quite great, the leather pieces were really amazing – the shorter jackets came as a great alternative to the high, four-button, double-breasted pieces, making the collection have balance and rhythm.
In many ways, the autumn-winter collection by Sir Paul Smith was a throwback to the past, but seen through a modern prism. The designer has a strong tie to the visual culture of the 1960s and 70s, so it is definitely noteworthy to see how he re-sees those times, which are now a huge source of inspiration for designers worldwide.
Fraquoh and Franchomme
Further reading:
The different types of suit fits
The best menswear looks from Paris Fashion Week autumn-winter 2018-19
The best menswear looks from Milan Fashion Week autumn-winter 2018-19
A Look at Pitti Uomo Autumn-Winter 2018
The best men’s looks from London Fashion Week autumn 2018
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