Frédéric Godart is an Associate Professor of Management & Human Resources at HEC in Paris. Before taking on this job, he was an Assistant Professor of Organisational Behaviour at INSEAD.
His research looks into the inner workings of creative industries, mostly focusing on fashion and luxury, often discussing subjects such as design, modeling, watchmaking, footwear and more.
He is known not just for his numerous articles which he published in academic journals, but also for his 2012 book “Unveiling Fashion: Business, Culture, and Identity in the Most Glamorous Industry”, which focuses on fashion as a social and cultural phenomenon and which truly makes for a great read.
In this interview, he discusses the relation between menswear and womenswear today, trends and whether the concept of Fashion Week has become obsolete.
What do you think the fashion of today says about the world of today?
Frédéric Godart: I think we are witnessing today the end of an era that started about 30 years ago. The era was characterized by fast globalization and the professionalization of many practices in fashion, notably thanks to the emergence of luxury and fashion conglomerates. At the same time, many believed that fashion became repetitive and gimmicky, losing its creativity. This is of course a bit harsh, but the type of creativity observed in the last decades – hybrids, for example of different styles or cultures, was different from the creativity of the previous decades, characterized by the emergence of wild, new styles. Today we are back to a period of intense creativity and the emergence of new styles. Look at what designers like Demna Gvasaglia or Marine Serre have achieved!
How do you comment on the relation between men’s fashion and women’s fashion today?
FG: Since the early 19th century, fashion has become, at least in the West, the prerogative of women. A psychologist even called this phenomenon the “great renouncement” of men in fashion. Before that, it was men, aristocrats and bourgeois mostly, who were into fashion, a way for them to assert their power. However, recently, especially in the premium and luxury segments of the industry, menswear has become at least as important as womenswear. Gender-neutral and androgynous styles are growing, blurring gender boundaries.
How do you envision the near future? What would you like to see change and what do you think will actually change?
FG: The near future will certainly be dominated by artificial intelligence systems predicting fashion change and telling us how to dress smartly. What role will stylists play in this world? There will also be new fabrics that will revolutionize our lifestyles. A challenge remains how fashion, especially the fast kind, treats the environment. I hope we can deal successfully with this, but it will require that brands and customers work hand in hand.
Do you think the concept of Fashion Weeks needs to change?
FG: Fashion Week is a very important event for the whole industry. It is a way to get together, to celebrate creativity and beauty, and to do business while having fun. I also think customers love it. Some people criticize its cost, or think it is outdated. These are valid points, but they do not warrant the end of Fashion Week as it is. I hope we keep it.
What is your take on the current state and future of fashion publications?
FG: Fashion magazines and newspapers have faced major challenges since the emergence of the Internet. They used to be the only information hubs, and now have been displaced by blogs and the brands themselves. Similarly, they are still influential but need to share this with Instagram stars and the like. I think fashion publications can still play role as far as they are experts in styles. This is a unique value proposition to the public.
What do you think will be the next big trends in fashion, especially in terms of concepts, sources of inspiration, etc.?
FG: Unheard-of technological change is knocking at the door, and this will transform everything, including fashion. So far, fashion has addressed this timidly through cyberpunk stylistic references for example, but this is bigger than that. What will fashion mean in virtual/augmented reality worlds for example? This is exciting. Everyone will be able to change their appearance instantly. Another challenge will the relation to the environment, and how to save the planet: this will certainly capture the imagination of young designers, and customers.
Thank you!
P.S. We want to hear from you! What trends are you looking forward to? Why? What do you think of the concept of Fashion Week? Share your feedback, questions or thoughts in the comments below! For more articles on style, fashion tips and cultural insights, you can subscribe to Attire Club via e-mail or follow us on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram!