Ties are the accessories that are most strongly associated with masculinity and masculine style.
A good tie, worn with confidence, can not only make a man look great, but it can also have a strong impact on his attitude and make him feel like a million dollars and ready to take over the world.
This is why it is essential to wear only great ties and to know what makes a good tie and how to choose the perfect tie for your body and for your needs.
Here are the main things you should consider when buying a new tie for yourself or for someone else:
The Fabric
A good brand should provide you with a lot of details about the ties they offer. If the fabric does not correspond to your needs or is described as “a mix”, it’s most likely that it is not the best tie in the world. The best fabrics for ties are of course, wool, linen and silk.
Silk ties are the finest ties. When you are checking out a silk tie, you should look for flexibility and smoothness in the surface. In case the silk is rough and catches on your skin when you touch it, it probably means that that tie is a cheaper product and that the fibers are already stiff and can therefore lose their luster soon.
When you are analyzing a tie, it is recommended to also check the tie’s lining. Ties of the highest quality are lined completely with wool. This type of ties is more expensive and rare, since it costs a lot to make such a model. This however, should not mean that a tie that makes use of blended wool cannot do the job.
Another thing you can look for is the “bar tack”, which is a horizontal stich you will find on the back of the tie, where the wider end splits to create the tip, holding the two sides of the tie attached. This part generally lacks in common ties and, if present, it is an indicator that you have found a good product.
The third thing you need to look for is the “slip stitch”. This is an extra stitch you can when checking down the central part of your tie. This part helps the tie slide easily while you tie it. The “slip stitch” can be found if you open the back of a necktie and see a loose, generally black thread hanging down on the inside.
The Construction
When wish to purchase a new tie, you should also check the tie’s construction. The best manufacturers use three panels. If your tie has three panels, you should be able to feel two different seams when pressing your finger into the tie’s fabric and running it along the length of your tie.
However, many ties use only two lengths. A tie that has visible seams on the outside is of low quality and can be skipped.
The Width and Length
You need to make sure that tie you are buying is proportionate to your body. In this sense, men with a larger body frame might want to wear wider ties, while men with thinner body frame might opt for a skinny tie or a thinner one. Going by this rule will make you look proportionate and will give you a well-balanced look.
In regards to the exact size of ties, most men are in the average range, so they should be alright with an average tie width of 3 ¼ in / 8 cm, measured at the widest point.
If you are a very broad guys, you can go for a broader tie as well, while thin men can opt for either skinny ties or 2 ¾ in / 7 cm ties that still fall in the medium category, just on the slimmer side.
When it comes to length, most men are well off with a medium tie length, that falls between 57 – 58 in / 145 – 150 cm. Only really tall (and we mean really tall) men need “extra-long” ties, as some sites call them, and, only very short men need shorter ties. If you are a shorter guy, but not too short to get a short tie, and not too tall to wear a medium tie, you can get a medium tie and tie a more complicated knot that will use more of the tie’s fabric, and it will make you look better!
The rule of tie length is that when you are wearing it, the tip of the tie should touch your waistline (where your belt is). The thin end that isn’t very visible, should be 1 in / 3 cm or so shorter.
The Setting
The general rule when it comes to ties and occasions is that shiny ties are to be worn on dressier occasions, while matte ties should be kept for casual settings. Of course, the lines are very blurred when it comes to these aspects, most ties go both for casual as well as dressy events, but you should remember that the more colorful and bright a tie is, the more casual it is, while ties that are more simple and darker are dressier.
While silk ties work for any occasion, knit ties or cotton ties should be worn only on casual occasions.
Square-End Ties
Square end ties, also called flat-end ties are knit ties which from the point of view of the design look just like a regular tie, but instead of ending in a “sharp” tip, they end in a straight line. Some men have issues wrapping their heads around this idea and around the idea of wearing a knit tie, but there are many advantages to knit ties. Knit ties come in cotton, wool and silk, just like any other tie.
So, if you decided to step out of the box and wear a different tie, there are some things you should know about these ties. Flat bottom ties entered fashion during the 1950s and 1960 and rapidly became a popular alternative to the classic tie.
Knitted ties look great when they are around 2 – 2.5 in / 5 – 6 cm wide. You will also find ties which are wider. These ties, which are about 3.25 inches / 8 cm wide, are great to be worn with double breasted suits and jackets that have wider peak lapels, as narrow ties usually go with narrower lapels.
When you are buying a knit tie, a factor you should take into consideration is the weave density. Pieces with a bigger density are, as the name says, denser, while ties with a lower weave density can even be see-through. It is recommended that you get one with a bigger weave density.
Online Shopping
The tips in this guide apply to both online and offline shopping, even though some aspects can be quite hard to identify online, as you can’t really feel the fabrics and check the seams of tie or be sure that the colors will look the same in reality.
If you like a tie from a store, but don’t find the information you need, don’t give up on it! Write an e-mail to customer service asking them the details about the tie. They should normally respond and go into a lot of detail when it comes to their products. If they don’t, you should probably let it go.
Buying ties on-line can save you time and will increase the versatility of your ties and can set you apart from others, as you can get them from anywhere in the world and from any designer or small business. The only important thing is to make sure you go to the right place and buy the right piece.
Selecting a tie crafted from a high-quality fabric, that has a color that flatters your skin tone and that is proportionate to your body is a great purchase to make and an investment every modern man should make. Ties make men elegant and sophisticated and will make everyone around you see you in a better, more serious light. Moreover, looking great will always result in feeling great, which is why it is strongly recommended to make sure you always put your best foot forward.
Fraquoh and Franchomme
Further reading:
A guide to matching your tie to your pocket square
Creating proportions: Lapels, ties and collars
Matching your shirt and tie: A guide
Choose the right tie for your body and face type
3 alternative ways to wear a tie
Why and how you should wear vintage ties
Advice on how to maintain a tie
The guide to wearing a tie bar
P.S. We want to hear from you! What are you looking for when buying a new tie? What type of ties do you like to wear? Share your feedback, questions or thoughts in the comments below! For more articles on style, fashion tips and cultural insights, you can subscribe to Attire Club via e-mail or follow us on Facebook or Twitter!
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What do you think of cotton ties?