One of the most spread buzzwords in menswear lately is the “unstructured jacket”. Many men have heard about it, most have probably even worn one or more without knowing it’s an unstructured jacket, and yet, most guys you ask couldn’t probably define what an unstructured jacket is and why one should wear one.
Unstructured jackets are a response to classic jackets from the early 20th century, which featured some so-called “structural” elements such as heavy linings, shoulder pads and chest canvases. As the 1970s came along with a more relaxed style, jackets started losing their “structural” elements and became more relaxed having few or none of these features.
Many jackets today don’t feature a heavy lining anymore. Generally, a well-designed jacket has a little lining, placed at the upper back and the shoulder. This is meant to give the jacket shape and to make it slide on and off quite easily. Some jackets still feature a full lining, but, unlike old-school linings, modern ones are very soft and you’ll barely notice they’re there.
Older jackets used to have a canvas under the chest of the piece. This has its purpose, namely to help the jacket mold on your shape over time, thus making it seem tailored to your body and adding structure to it, and to keep the fabric wrinkle-free, but more modern jackets either have a lighter, more flexible lining that you won’t really notice, or no canvas at all. Fabrics today have changed from the past, and are smoother and more adaptable overall, which makes the need for chest canvas less necessary.
A few decades ago, shoulder pads were a big thing, but today, it’s unlikely that you’ll see a blazer with shoulder pads. This is more of a good thing than a bad one: clothes in general are meant to be made in a way that fits your body and makes you feel relaxed and comfortable in them, not to add heavy bulk. Also, the lack of shoulder pads pushes designers and clothes makers to make better clothes that fit the wearers without artifice, which takes the fashion world to a different level. And, in the end, in fashion, it is always best to work with what you have and make the best of it.
Benefits of unstructured jackets
There are a few reasons why you should choose unstructured jackets to structured ones, which is why so many fashion editors, stylists and designers recommend them. Firstly, they mold easily and adapt to your natural shape. If you need to tailor them, they are a lot easier to tailor than structured jackets. Also, tailoring is often not needed, as unstructured jackets come in slimmer cuts than structured jackets.
Moreover, because they lack all the “structural” elements, you won’t get to hot in them, as they are lightweight and highly breathable. Their light weight and uncomplicated design also makes them easy to pack for trips.
Unstructured blazers or dress jackets are a great choice for casual or more formal occasions; they flatter the body’s natural lines and make you look sleek and polished.
This is why, investing in such a jacket is a great step to upgrading your style a few steps and having a great sartorial experience, which is something that will impact not only your outside, but your inside as well.
Fraquoh and Franchomme
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