New men’s collections have just come out of Paris after London and Milan. The French capital is known for its unconventional approach to fashion. The word that describes most of the clothes unveiled during this edition of Paris Fashion Week is eerie.
This did not come as a surprise, as the whole fashion world is today in a state of undefined fogginess. The inspiration for many designs seems to be a dusty world, a world of unclarity and decay, which, it can be argued, is a good reflection of today’s world at large. In many ways, it seems that designers don’t build as much clothes as they break down. Not necessarily in a distressed trend kind of way – even though that’s a big thing as well – but from a thought process perspective.
It seems that designers don’t focus as much on what clothes should be, but rather on what they should not be.
Of course, there are many exceptions and good looks out there, and here are just a few examples:
Gmbh
This effortless and cool look is not extremely innovative in terms of design: gray pants and a classic white shirt with a twist detail on the shoulders. However, what we really enjoy about it is the play with proportions. The structure of the garments and the way they were mixed is very good: it adds structure to the body and it gave the model an overall polished look. The outfit is indeed a lesson of how you can use proportions to create a great look.
Walter Van Beirendonck
Walter Van Beirendonck is a conceptual designer whose work we like to follow from season to season. While his spring-summer 2019 collection was not as outlandish as his previous work, we did enjoy it. This look in particular caught our eye because it was colorful and bright, but simple at the same time.
Ami
It seems that peasant clothes are becoming a strong source of inspiration. We’ve seen it in Milan Fashion Week and now we’re seeing it in Paris. We like the idea of transforming looks that are considered low-brow into cool fashion items. The socks and sandals combo is also a nice touch of humor.
Loewe
We love a weird print mix, especially if the mix is accompanied by a piece with interesting, voluminous details. Thus, this look from the Loewe spring-summer 2019 collection definitely caught our eye. It’s fun and quirky, which is something the runways of today need desperately.
We live in a world where designers have very clear and distinct voices. This is definitely and advantage, as it allows customers to know exactly where to go for the type of clothes they desire. Having a strong voice in the fashion world today is essential, as one needs to stand out and be clear what their take is in order to be easily identifiable in the sea of voices and views. However, at the same time, it can be said that have such a clear and distinct voice can prove to be a disadvantage as well, as it does not allow one to explore and do different things. It seems that many designers simply work on processing the same aesthetic over and over again that they lose sight of the bigger picture. Of course, it’s natural to have a personality – ultimately, this is what fashion is all about, but at the same time, after so many seasons of similar approaches, the excitements tends to get lost.
It could very well be that we find ourselves in a moment of ending, with a new shift on the horizon, but that horizon is still far and the first rays of the new sun have not come out. Yet.
Fraquoh and Franchomme
Further reading:
A roundup of the best menswear looks from Milan Fashion Week Spring 2019
A review of the menswear looks from London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2019
The Moschino Spring-Summer 2019 menswear collection in review
P.S. We want to hear from you! What do you think of this edition of Paris Fashion Week? Which was your favorite look? Why? Share your feedback, questions or thoughts in the comments below! For more articles on style, fashion tips and cultural insights, you can subscribe to Attire Club via e-mail or follow us on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram!