Revealed during Milan Fashion Week, the Versace spring 2018 collection was a colorful take on extremely classic items. Not so much chromatically, but from the point of view of the designer’s perspective on the season. Introducing some unexpected and rather strong elements, such as zippered hoodies worn with bow ties or yellow gloves, this collection managed to keep serious clothes serious, but to still make them fun and a bit showy. Or, more showy.
The menswear pieces of the collection were flattering and sharply tailored. This comes as a breath of fresh air in the context of the many oversized pieces we have seen now for quite some time from other brands. But then again, Tomas Maier has been described as a “modern-minded tailor”.
At a first glance, it may seem that the menswear looks were a little bland, despite the beautiful touches of color one could see, but in fact they were quite dandy – and not just because of the bow ties and the clear 19th century silhouettes. This clever and chic approach to menswear that we see in the collection is in many ways part of the newfound version of adult malehood. It’s not old and looking backwards, but young and fresh and at the same time, it maintains a certain decorum and elegance. Men have lost this is many ways, as often men’s clothes are either infantile in nature or downright childish, while at other times they are just the same business suits all over again.
While it might be true that the menswear looks seemed to be based either on 18th century attire or on 2000s urbanwear, and the women’s clothes were based on the 1940s (despite Maier’s disagreement with this characterization), it can be said that this is exactly why they went together. Fashion should not look like a theater costume and people should build on different backgrounds and references of visual culture.
Taking things in and putting something new out is what true fashion is all about, and this is why the Bottega Veneta autumn 2017 collection is fashion gold.
Fraquoh and Franchomme
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